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An expert guide to Rome

Three millennia of history worn as lightly as summer linen

Rome has been around for almost three thousand years and yet carries all that weight of history with a dolce vita lightness of uk canada goose outlet heart. It’s a city that combines the intimacy and human scale of a village with the cultural draws of a historic, art laden European metropolis. Classical ruins and early Christian places of worship stand canada goose outlet online next to or sometimes lie beneath Renaissance palazzos and Baroque fountains. But there are also great neighbourhood trattorias, uk canada goose quirky shops and a buzzing aperitivo scene. The golden rule for canada goose uk black friday visitors? Don’t try to cram too much in. In the centre, emperor Marcus Aurelius still greets you official canada goose outlet proudly from his saddle, though today’s equestrian statue is a replica of the second century AD bronze original conserved just across the square in the Musei Capitolini(00 39 060 608).

Dodge around the back of Palazzo dei Senatori for a panoramic view of the Forum. Then head across Piazza Venezia to the Antica Birreria Peroni (Via San Marcello https://www.st-edwards-cam.org.uk 19; 00 39 06 67 95 310), a vintage Roman style bierkeller, canada goose uk shop where crowds of appreciative locals and tourists pack in to dine on filling carb and meat fare, washed down with draught Peroni. If canada goose outlet in usa you’re in a hurry, you can join the local office workers who eat standing canada goose outlet sale up at the bar in the entrance.

Brave the crowds again and head for the Colosseum/Forum/Palatine complex. Half circus, half sports arena, Rome’s most famous classical ruin is unmissable especially now that they have extended the visitor route to the underfloor canada goose clearance passageways through which gladiators and wild beasts made their goose outlet canada entrances. Walk from the Colosseum though the Forum cheap canada goose to the pretty Palatine Hill, where Romulus legendarily founded Rome, and where emperors such as Augustus built their palaces.

If the canada goose outlet new york city throng proves too daunting, head to nearby San Clemente(Via Labicana 95), one of Rome’s most worthwhile but least publicised sightseeing treats. This historical layer cake descends from a street level medieval and early Renaissance church, with frescoes by Masolino, via a fourth century early Christian church to the basement remains of a second century insula (apartment block), complete with shrine to Mithras.

For an aperitivo or after dinner drink under an ivy draped door, old school wine bar Ai Tre Scalini offers a glimpse of pre hipster Monti (Via Panisperna 251, 00 39 06 4890 7495).

The best restaurants in Rome

Head into Monti, the chic boho district of cobbled lanes and alternative Canada Goose Outlet fashion and vintage shops between Via Nazionale and Via Cavour. Best hunting ground for funky togs, shoes and jewellery is Via del Boschetto, where you’ll find good value restaurant L’Asino d’Oro (Via del Boschetto 73; 00 39 06 4891 3832) serving up gourmet dishes (lamb innards in vin santo with melon and goat’s cheese, anyone?) at affordable prices.

For an aperitivo or after dinner drink under an ivy draped door, old school wine bar Ai Tre Scalini offers a glimpse of pre hipster Monti (Via Panisperna 251, 00 39 06 4890 7495).

The best restaurants in Rome

Otherwise, start your day with a Roman breakfast of cappuccino and cornetto (croissant) at elegant Bar Rosati (Piazza del Popolo 5a; 00 39 06 322 5859), which at this morning hour still has a relaxed vibe. Then cross the square to the church of Santa Maria del Popolo (Piazza del Popolo 12), an artistic treasure trove in which two strikingly dramatic canvases by Caravaggio stand out.

Head for the Ara Pacis (Lungotevere in Augusta; 00 39 060 608), where Richard Meier’s boxy museum container houses a graceful marble altar that honoured Emperor Augustus’s pacification of the Roman provinces. It’s a short stroll to the churches of Sant’Agostino and San Luigi dei Francesi in the piazzas of the same names, with more splendid Caravaggios.

The best free things to do in Rome

Dine at one of Rome’s new breed of creative trattorias. In boho Trastevere, La Gensola (Piazza della Gensola 15; 00 39 06 581 6312) offers a mix of tasty Roman specialities and Sicilian style seafood dishes in an informal setting. Alternatively, head for cheap canada goose Testaccio and grab a pizza at Remo (Piazza Santa Maria Liberatrice 44; closed Sundays) or an aperitivo canada goose outlet canada at the Enoteca Palombi(Piazza Testaccio 41), where, between 7pm and 9pm, 10 (9) buys you a drink and a heaving plate of food from the buffet.

There’s no real off season in the Eternal City. Spring and autumn canada goose jacket outlet are the busiest tourist seasons, with a peak at Easter as Vatican pilgrims swell visitor numbers. Winter especially from mid January into canada goose outlet jackets the first week of March can be a great time to come if you’re lucky with the weather. Hotel rates are lower and restaurants are blissfully uncrowded. If you can take the heat, August (when most Romans head for the beach) is another good month to find offers on hotel rooms. The most perfect months, weatherwise, are probably April, May and October and it’s also at this time of year that you’ll generally find the most pleasant temperature differential between balmy Rome and the cold north.

Tourist office information:There are Tourist Information Points all over the city. As well as the two airports, you’ll find useful ones at Termini Station (platform 24, open daily 8am 7.30pm), Castel Sant’Angelo, near the Vatican (daily 9.30am 7pm) and Piazza delle Cinque Lune, near Piazza Navona (daily 9.30am 7pm).

Drinking alcohol in the street (unless it’s the spillover area of a bar or pub) and going bare chested are no nos.

Dress code in churches is: shoulders and midriffs covered and ‘modest’ dress or skirt length for women, while for men vests and really short shorts are frowned on though these rules are canada goose outlet nyc only rigorously enforced in major basilicas like St Peter’s. Italians always say canada goose outlet uk hello and goodbye in social situations including when entering or leaving shops, bars etc.

A canada goose store simple ‘buon giorno’ in the morning or ‘buona sera’ in the afternoon or evening goes a long way. canada goose uk outlet ‘Ciao’ is for friends, family or young people. If somebody thanks you by saying ‘grazie’, it’s polite to say ‘prego’ (you’re welcome) in return.

The basics

Currency:Euro. Lee may now live in the Italian countryside but he still needs a regular dose of the eternal city, where he lived for 24 years.

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